... well, not quite – we were “just visiting” a farm in Africa. But it really was beautiful and quite unforgettable. So for anyone who is curious and wants to know more, here is a short report with photos.

 

 

After a nine-and-a-half-hour flight, we land at the International Airport (hm, well, :-) with a small arrival hall and one baggage conveyor belt in Windhoek. We then take a two-hour ride in a VW bus on endless roads through the barren but impressive bush savannah of Namibia. Initial impressions: driving on the left takes some getting used to, inquisitive baboons, warthogs and lots of termite mounds at the roadside up to three metres high. Finally there is another half hour of bumpy gravel/sand track and we are finally at the gates of the farm: OKOMITUNDU (www.okomitundu.com). The name is Damara Otjiherero (one of the many Namibian languages) and means: the place of the many termite mounds.

 

Compared to the barren landscape we have seen so far, Okomitundu is a small green and blossoming paradise. A magnificent old farm house, eight small bungalows with generous, comfortable double rooms in African style with bathroom and balcony, a utilities building, a paddock with twelve horses, a large enclosure where four ostriches and two oryx antelopes live peacefully together, big cages with parrots, squirrels and giant tortoises. Seven dogs, the farm managers and their family (all of whom are really friendly as it turns out over the following two weeks) – and we are greeted by thousands of butterflies fluttering around us. The farmer’s wife and employees have already prepared a delicious light lunch for us which we take in the shade.

 

The food is simply exquisite: large breakfasts with eggs and bacon on request, coffee, tea, juices, homemade bread, kumquat and cactus fig marmalade made on the premises, light lunch – usually cold – 5 o’clock tea (very British actually) with the most delicious cake, and romantic dinner under the open sky by the barbecue, with cactus fig juice and South African red wine, tender antelope or ostrich meat (only our vegetarian daughter can resist this), salad, vegetable (lots of pumpkin and sweetcorn) and enticing deserts.

Our cook for one week is Hans – thin as a beanpole, highly personable and paragliding chef from the Namibian seaside town of Swakopmund. It’s funny to hear him speak with his marked Austrian accent: he comes from Tyrol.

 

Our days are both exciting and relaxing, temperatures between 35 and 39 Celsius, but very pleasant due to the low air humidity of just 20-30 per cent and wind. The extremely loud, unfamiliar cry of the guinea fowl usually wakes us at around eight o’clock after a pleasantly cool night. Out of bed, into the pool for a refreshing swim, then to the farmhouse terrace for breakfast. In the mornings we usually have some small outing planned – on foot, by jeep or a couple of times by Cessna. The huge 18,000-hectare bush savannah farm landscape is fascinating and we see lots of oryx and kudku antelopes, springbok and steenbok, zebras, baboons, jackals, cape hyraxes and lots of unfamiliar bird species. And travelling in the jeep is great fun! These robust cars really do go everywhere  - up steep rocky paths, simply ignoring high bushes in the middle of the path or deep potholes. One day we fly in a tiny Cessna from the seventies (I was a little nervous!) over the apparently endless Namib sand desert and impressive Namib Canyon to Swakopmund by the Atlantic. I was reminded of the aeroplane scene with Tania Blixen and Dennis Finch Hutton in the film “Out of Africa” ... On other days we visit the neighbouring farm Kansimba where we see lots of waterbuck, go to the excellent wood market in Okahandja and hike through the Namibian bush savannah – well protected with SPF 25 and wide-brimmed hats. Luckily we did not meet any of the snakes, scorpions or leopards that live here! After lunch we always feel tired so we take a siesta every day. Wonderful! We sleep till at least 3 pm, then read, swim, chat, take photos, ride ... the farm horses are not so easy to handle as they are not ridden often – but it’s fine.

 

One very special event was the night we stayed on the 1600 metre Kudu Mountain, which is on the farm territory. The view from the top of this mountain is breath-taking. We went the first time on Christmas Eve and I was thinking: this is what the Promised Land itself must have look liked,– mountains, valleys, plateaus as far as the eye can see. After dark we had a barbecue and sang African songs with guitar accompaniment around the camp fire. Truly romantic. Especially the night sky. I have never seen so many stars in my life! My only worry: I hope the leopards don’t get curious and pay us a visit. Luckily they are too timid.

 

The farm staff always get their Christmas presents at midday on Christmas Eve. This year they receive clothing and shoes, a melon, potatoes, maize meal, sugar, washing powder, a pumpkin, artificial hair for plaiting and – for everyone together – a freshly shot oryx antelope. To say thank you, the 18 Namibian children sing the German Christmas carol “Ihr Kinderlein kommet” in Damara. Great!!

 

Contrary to expectations we celebrate New Year’s Eve in German style – perhaps even more so than back home. All the farmers in the neighbourhood come together in their little farmers’ club house. The decorations remind me of the local fair where I come from in Pennigbüttel, northern Germany. Heino, Roberto Blanco and the Bläck Föös are to played on the little cassette recorder, there is a cold buffet, lots of cold beer and we dance of course. We even get our New Year’s Eve tradition of dancing the Emperor’s Waltz! And we get to bring in 2004 one hour earlier than in Germany!

 

We have been extraordinarily impressed by this country with its incredible friendly people and exotic animals, its magnificent sunsets and endless landscapes under the vast sky.

On our last day there is great joy for the farmers: it rains! Only in short showers and not very hard, but everyone is overjoyed and takes pleasure even in the smallest puddle! Personally, I will remember the smell of the brown Namibian soil as the rain falls – an unusual, spicy smell.

We are all sad to say goodbye to Okomitundu, Namibia and Africa. We hope we will never forget any of the fascinating impressions as we return to grey, rainy Germany in January.

Hambalikale, n'kosi simbajale.
May peace be with you as you return the way you have come ...
(That was Damara! :-))